How to apply wallpaper to a wall

Overview

The method is simple: a perfectly flat, primed wall; strips cut with the pattern repeat included; and every drop hung flush against a plumb line with the design matched at the seam. Getting the prep and the first drop right does most of the work — everything after that is repetition.

Step 1: Prep the wall

Remove old wallpaper and scrape off loose adhesive. Fill holes and sand the wall smooth, then wash away dust. Finally, apply a coat of wallpaper sizing (or a primer) — it seals the wall so the paste bonds evenly and makes the paper far easier to strip next time. Never hang new paper over unprimed bare drywall or old vinyl.

Step 2: Measure and estimate

Measure the room perimeter and the wall height from baseboard to ceiling, then use the wallpaper calculator to estimate rolls — it includes a waste factor you can raise for large patterns. Buy all your rolls at once from the same dye lot, and check the lot numbers on the packages.

Step 3: Cut the strips

Cut strips (drops) to the wall height plus about 2 in of trim allowance at each end. For patterned wallpaper, add the pattern repeat length to every drop after the first so the design can line up — cutting all drops in sequence off the roll keeps the pattern continuous.

Step 4: Paste and book the paper

Apply paste to the back of each drop with a brush or roller, or use paste-the-wall wallpaper and coat the wall instead. Fold the pasted drop loosely onto itself — adhesive sides together — and let it "book" for the time the manufacturer recommends. Booking activates the paste and makes the paper easier to handle.

Step 5: Hang the first drop

Strike a plumb line with a plumb bob or level near the corner you'll start at — corners are rarely true, so trust the line, not the wall. Hang the first drop flush with the line, and smooth from the center outward with a wallpaper brush or smoother to push air bubbles to the edges.

Step 6: Hang and butt the remaining drops

Align each next drop with the pattern on the one already hung, then butt its edge tight against the previous seam — do not overlap, except at corners. Trim the excess at the ceiling and baseboard with a straightedge and a sharp knife while the paste is still workable. If a seam is visible, it's usually because the paste set before you adjusted it — align quickly and roll the seam flat.

Step 7: Turn corners and cut openings

At an inside corner, wrap the drop around it by about 1 in and smooth it into the corner, then hang the next drop flush with a new plumb line and overlap the seam slightly. Cut around windows, doors, and electrical plates: smooth the paper over the opening, cut a small X, then trim flush with a knife — do this while the paper is still damp so it doesn't tear.

Step 8: Finish and clean up

Roll every seam with a seam roller to seat it, and wipe away excess paste with a damp sponge before it dries. Check for bubbles and either smooth them to the edge or prick and flatten them with a needle. After the wall dries, re-trim any edges that lifted and touch up with a sharp knife.

Cost and time

• Materials: $40–$150+ for a 12×10 ft room depending on wallpaper quality; roughly $30–$80 for paste, sizing, and tools.
• Time: 4–8 hours for a small room, or 1–2 days with wall prep.
• Tools: tape measure, plumb line, utility knife, straightedge, wallpaper smoother or brush, seam roller, bucket and sponge, drop cloth, stepladder.

Tips for a professional finish

• Always prime with wallpaper sizing so the paper comes off cleanly the next time.
• Buy all rolls from one dye lot — lot numbers vary between runs.
• Raise the calculator's waste factor for large pattern repeats.
• Smooth bubbles toward the nearest edge before the paste sets.
• Butt seams tight; only overlap at corners.
• Ventilate the room and follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions.